Dog Parks and Puppies -- NO!

Perfect example why I'd rather to go the dentist, than a dog park.  Read: "Well Socialized? No, Well traumatized." - http://www.whenhoundsfly.com/well-socialized-well-traumatized/

In the opinion of many other dog behaviorists "dog park" is a four letter word as far as puppies are concerned.  I share these sentiments.

More reading "Welcome to the Frat Party a/k/a I'm not Socializing my Puppy that Way so Go Away" by The Dog Snob blog. Excerpt below:

"Regardless of how you feel about adult dogs at dog parks, I think there is one thing we can all agree on. Puppies do NOT belong at dog parks. Period. End of story. Why, you ask? Let us count the ways. Illness. Injury. Stress and fear responses. The list goes on and on. Dog parks are like frat parties. They are full of loud, rude, clueless, and overstimulated individuals who only get worse when part of a large group. Plus, farting and humping is not only allowed, but encouraged. "

8 Week Headshots

The BOYZ had their evaluation today with another breeder and some Vizsla friends and family. Here are some lovely headshot of each Baby Boy taken by my friend Shirley Olsen.

Blue/Tommy

Lime/Tait

Grey-Olive/Taz

Orange/Tanner

Red/Trey

We're 7 1/2 weeks old and we destroyed our Puppy Pen!

Destroyed!

Ok, let's try this again.

The BOYZ destroyed their freshly cleaned and sparkly Puppy Pen while I dressed for work.  All in a matter of about 30 minutes. This is the reason I do want any owners creating a Puppy Pen -- but rather to go straight to crate training.  

While the play area was being replaced/swept/re-organized the puppies shared a crate (with the door closed) and while there was some momentary screaming --- they all survived. 

Crates, Car Rides, Shots and Vets -- OH MY!

The BOYZ had a big day -- a car ride to the vet in a crate. The pups were a huge hit at Yorba Regional Animal Hospital where they got a check up and weigh in.  There was a bit more "quiet" on the way home from the vet (1.25 drive) -- yay! 

The Puppy’s Rule of Twelve - Socialization Info

The Puppy’s Rule of Twelve

Positive Paws Dog Training © 2002

Margaret Hughes - mags@positivetrainer.com

Adapted with permission from Pat Schaap’s “RULE OF 7’s” for 7 week old puppies. Make sure all experiences are safe and positive for the puppy. Each encounter should include treats and lots of praise. Slow down and add distance if your puppy is scared!

By the time a puppy is 12 weeks old, it should have: (if your puppy is over 12 weeks start right away with this socialization guide.)

• Experienced 12 different surfaces: wood, woodchips, carpet, tile, cement, linoleum, grass, wet grass, dirt, mud, puddles, deep pea gravel, grates, uneven surfaces, on a table, on a chair, etc.
• Played with 12 different objects: fuzzy toys, big & small balls, hard toys, funny sounding toys, wooden items, paper or cardboard items, milk jugs, metal items, car keys, etc.
• Experienced 12 different locations: front yard (daily), other people’s homes, school yard, lake, pond, river, boat, basement, elevator, car, moving car, garage, laundry room, kennel, veterinarian hospital (stop by sometimes just to say hi & visit, lots of cookies, no vaccinations), grooming salon (just to say hi), etc.
• Met and played with 12 new people (outside of family): include children, adults (mostly men), elderly adults, people in wheelchairs, walkers, people with canes, crutches, hats, sunglasses, etc.
• Exposed to 12 different noises (ALWAYS keep positive and watch puppy’s comfort level – we don’t want the puppy scared): garage door opening, doorbell, children playing, babies screaming, big trucks, Harley motorcycles, skateboards, washing machine, shopping carts rolling, power boat, clapping, loud singing, pan dropping, horses neighing, vacuums, lawnmowers, birthday party, etc.
• Exposed to 12 fast moving objects (don’t allow to chase): skateboards, rollerskates, bicycles, motorcycles, cars, people running, cats running, scooters, vacuums, children running, children playing soccer, squirrels, cats, horses running, cows running, etc.
• Experienced 12 different challenges: climb on, in, off and around a box, go through a cardboard tunnel, climb up and down steps, climb over obstacles, play hide & seek, go in and out a doorway with a step up or down, exposed to an electric sliding door, umbrella, balloons, walk on a wobbly table (plank of wood with a small rock underneath), jump over a broom, climb over a log, bathtub (and bath) etc.
• Handled by owner (& family) 12 times a week: hold under arm (like a football), hold to chest, hold on floor near owner, hold in-between owner’s legs, hold head, look in ears, mouth, in-between toes, hold and take temperature (ask veterinarian), hold like a baby, trim toe nails, hold in lap, etc.
• Eaten from 12 different shaped containers: wobbly bowl, metal, cardboard box, paper, coffee cup, china, pie plate, plastic, frying pan, Kong, Treatball, Bustercube, spoon fed, paper bag, etc.
• Eaten in 12 different locations: back yard, front yard, crate, kitchen, basement, laundry room, bathroom, friend’s house, car, school yard, bathtub, up high (on work bench), under umbrella, etc.
• Played with 12 different puppies (or safe adult dogs) as much as possible. [This does NOT mean at the dog park.]
• Left alone safely, away from family & other animals (5-45 minutes) 12 times a week.
• Experienced a leash and collar 12 different times in 12 different locations.

Baby Birddogs! The BOYZ and their first bird wing!

The BOYZ had fun playing around and pointing the "bird wing on a string" with one of their future families (Anna and Rob).  Everyone was interested in the wing and showed natural instincts. Nice going BOYZ!

See the full photo album here:  http://www.smugmug.com/gallery/n-c9B6f/i-twGSbvs

Puppy Development - Weeks 5 to 7

Socialization Period (weeks five through week seven)

The more things the puppies can be introduced to during this period the better socialized the puppy will be and the less fearful of day-to-day encounters.  The BOYZ have had many visitors and have heard neighborhood noises like garbage trucks, tree trimmers, dogs barking, met another dog and have had tons of new experiences in and around the house. 

Under socialized dogs are shy and fearful; I work hard to make sure my puppies are well socialized. This process goes on for months after our adoptive families take their puppies’ home. As responsible owners, it is the responsibility of the new owners to continue this process and not just keep their new puppy at home.

It is VERY important that new puppy owners continue the socialization process to assure a well socialized dog when they mature.

19 Dog-Friendly Stores Where You Can Shop With Your Pup

With the intensive socialization required for Vizsla puppies --- this is helpful info.

19 Dog-Friendly Stores Where You Can Shop With Your Pup

http://barkpost.com/dog-friendly-stores/?utm_source=facebook&utm_medium=post

Canine Maternal Behavior -- VERY important

The BOYZ are learning valuable lessons from Zene.  Last night, I watched her take one of their chewies from their puppy playpen and instead of take it away to chew it, she sat right down in the middle of them all -- almost taunting and teasing them with it -- but also in an effort to show them it was hers (low growls) and that they should respect her.  I love seeing this approproiate behavior and I know how important it is for the puppy to have some "basic doggie language skills" before they head home.  

The below exceprt was posted in a Facebook Vizsla Group, and I was happy to see a well-known breeder on the East Coast comment that she refused to breed one of her girls because she was afraid she would not have any maternal instincts/be a poor brood bitch; much respect for her decision.   

Canine Maternal Behavior 

Maternal behavior is, thus, almost identical in wild a canids and domestic dogs. Immediately after birth, the mother dries the puppies, keeps them warm, feeds them and licks them clean. The maternal behavior right after birth is controlled by hormonal processes and problems may occur if the female gives birth too early. On the other hand, pseudo-pregnancy causes females to undergo hormonal changes which may elicit maternal behavior in various degrees. Maternal behavior seems to be self-reinforcing. Studies show that the levels of dopamine increase in the nucleus accumbens (a region of the brain) when a female displays maternal behavior. 

When the puppies become older, the mother begins to educate them. She gives them the first lessons in dog language about the time weaning begins. Growling, snarling and the various pacifying behaviors are inborn, but the puppies need to learn their function. 

The canine mother has three main tasks: (1) to feed the puppies, first with her own milk, then by regurgitation, (2) to keep them clean and warm, especially when they are very young, and (3) to educate the puppies. 

A good canine mother is patient and diligent. When the puppies grow, dog owners often misunderstand the mother’s apparently more violent educational methods. She may growl at them and even attack them, but she never harms them. Muzzle grabbing is fairly common. Without the mother’s intervention, the puppies would never become capable social animals and would not be able to function properly in a pack (a group of wild dogs living together is in English called a pack). When the puppies are about 8-10 weeks old, the mother seems to lose some of her earlier interest in them. In normal circumstances, the rest of the pack, then, takes over the continuing education of the puppies, their social integration in the group (which probably mostly consists of relatives) and their protection.

Entire article: http://rogerabrantes.wordpress.com/2014/11/11/canine-maternal-behavior/ 

Make Your Life Easier -- start training from DAY ONE

Every puppy comes to their new home with an inherent desire to follow. They are always underfoot and look to you for guidance and entertainment. Then something happens...they turn 16 weeks and realize that they can be independent. 

If you do it right, teaching your new puppy to come back when called is the easiest skill to solidify. Your puppy is already showing you the desired behaviour. All you need to do is reward it, praise it, solidify it. By rewarding their desire to follow, you are creating a solid foundation on which to build your recall. If you wait until they are 16 weeks old, you will have to work exponentially harder to make recalls fun and rewarding. 

Make life easier for you and your new pup - start training from day one and always reward the behaviors you like.

Erinn Lee Dog Training
http://www.erinnlee.com

Adult Vizsla Dremel Nail Session - "Zene"

Dremel nail session with mommy to the True Love Litter, 4 year old "Zene". To be honest I normally take them down shorter, but this gives you the idea.

You will see she kicks her back legs in protest (something she rarely does) so I left it in this "first take" video. At the end you can see the dremel is off and she is still relaxed, then I release her and we go into the other room for a treat. Good girl!

The boys play hard and sleep harder!

Taz and Trey

Tanner

Tait and Trey

Taz

Trey

Introduction to the crate ....

The BOYZ have a 300 sized* plastic crate (32") in their play area now -- I think they like it!  They use it for a playroom and eventually took a nap in there, all five of them!

*Note: this crate size is too small for an adult Vizsla, plan on at least 36"

Super Saturday!

The Boyz had a visit from Barbara who is one of their future owners. She travelled all the way down from Carmel just to see them!  Naturally she was enamored . . . 

Kitchen Puppy Party -- and the Puppy Plaything!

"Zene" in the Puppy Plaything

What is the Puppy Plaything, you ask?  It's a PVC pipe contraption that stimulates puppies’ senses in a fun and safe way -- it has hanging toys, bottles, and ("safe") plastic/random objects. Adding the Puppy Plaything to their play area teaches them (at a time they have few fears) that stuff that moves and makes noise is interesting and fun!

Sometimes I'll toss treats inside the Plaything so the pups have to go through the dangling items to get to them. The pups are charging into, tugging on and playing with the Plaything. They enjoyed one of their first few meals in the center of the Plaything. This teaches them to tolerate things touching and bumping them while they eat. Good boys!

Some photos from our Kitchen Puppy Party . . . 

Tait checking things out.

Trey lost his collar (Red)

Taz using the pellet potty box

Hi from Tommy!

Successful playtime --- NAPPING BOYZ!

Puppy Development - Week 3 to 4

The True Love BOYZ are 3 Weeks Old!

At this stage "fear" has not yet developed and this is the age where the puppies need to be exposed to sudden noises like turning on the vacuum, radio, TV, hair dryer etc. The puppies are now listening to Sound Socialization CD's (you can see examples on the Clean Run website) which have gunshots, sirens, babies crying and the like.

The startle response needs to be experienced and the puppy allowed to return to normal quickly before the fear stage begins. This needs to happen so the puppy knows that when startled throughout the rest of his life, he can return to normal and everything will be ok. A puppy that has not had these experiences during this stage of development will more than likely be a "fearful" dog as a adult (just another reason you want to adopt from a reputable breeder who socializes their litters).

The puppies will begin a loose pecking order at this stage and start "play fighting" with each other. They will also begin to eat food, but still be nursing their mom as well. By Wednesday or so of this week they will be started on gruel which is ground up/wet kibble/deyhydrated raw food.  

As the week goes by Zene will begin to teach them to nurse more gently and when to quit as their teeth will start to appear by nearly 4 weeks. This is one of the first lessons in discipline.

Over the next few days the puppies will be moving out of the whelping box to the PUPPY PARTY PALACE and be exposed to the PUPPY PLAYTHING and teeter totters, boxes, toys and various objects . . . STAY TUNED! 

What Is A Title, Really?

Moonlight's Just Chillin' Out, CGC "Mister" owned by Bruce & Jessica, earned his Canine Good Citizen Title (CGC) at 8 months old.

---

What Is A Title, Really? 

by Sandra Mowery

Not just a brag, not just a stepping stone to higher titles, a title is a tribute to the dog that bears it, a way of honoring the dog, an ultimate memory. It will remain in record and in memory for as long as anything in this world can remain. Few humans will do as well or better in that regard.

And though the dog itself doesn't know or care that its achievement have been noted, a title says many things in the world of humans, where such things count.

A title says your dog was intelligent and adaptable, and good-natured. It says that your dog LOVED YOU enough to do the things that pleased you, however crazy they may have sometimes seemed.

And a title says that you LOVED YOUR DOG, that you love to spend time with it because it was a good dog, that you believed in it enough to give it yet another chance when it failed, and that in the end, your faith was justified.

A title proves that your dog inspired you to that special relationship enjoyed by so few, that in a world of disposable creatures, this dog with this title was greatly love, and loved greatly in return.

And when that dear short life is over, the title remains as a memory of the finest kind, the best you can give to a deserving friend, volumes of praise in one small set of initials after a name.

An obedience title (or any working title) is nothing, less love and respect given and received and permanently recorded.

---

Sandy Mowry who is a frequent contributor to Front & Finish® wrote this article. While her intent was to focus on obedience titles we all could easily insert Hunt Test title, Agility title, Rally title, Conformation (Show), Tracking title and so on into the text of the article and it would be every bit as relevant. 

Front & Finish® is an organization devoted to the sport of obedience dog training and associated performance events. In addition to their monthly magazine which contains a wealth of information on Obedience, Agility, Field, Flyball, Freestyle, Herding, Rally, Tracking, and much more; Front & Finish® sponsors educational seminars, provides support to all performance events, encourages tournaments, and assists training organizations. They also acknowledge the accomplishments of exhibitors though several recognitions, awards, and rating systems.

Why are modern dogs increasingly likely to have aggression/socialization issues with other dogs?

Great article by Victoria Stillwell (positively.com) discussing the topic of dog socialization and why modern domesticated dogs are showing more signs of dog-dog aggression than ever before.

"Are Domestic Dogs Losing the Ability to Get Along with Each Other?"

With all the advantages money can buy, why are our pet dogs becoming more and more aggressive with each other?

The answers:

1. Isolation
2. Confinement
3. Lack of regular, frequent interaction with a variety of stable dogs of varying ages
4. Ignorance of dog culture and social communication skills
5. Expectations that all dogs must get along with each other

What Needs To Change to Keep Our Dogs Productively Social?

• Operation Socialization: Follow the common sense rules set out by Operation Socialization, an online resource for creating an emotionally and behaviorally healthy puppy
• Never force: Take it slow with your dog or puppy. Don’t force him to face something he finds scary or unpleasant. Instead, gradually create a positive association with the scary situation until your puppy confidently and willingly meets the challenge.
• Help Them Create Appropriate Distance: Because our dogs need to walk safely on a leash, create distance for them by moving away from other dogs and then evaluating that dog’s behavior. Read Calming Signals by Turid Rugaas to learn how to “arc” around other dogs to simulate natural calming behavior.
• Educate Yourself: Take classes where the dogs are treated with respect. Use positive methods that will instill trust in the dog and create safe and favorable associations with other dogs (and other people). Get help from a professional.
• Safe Socialization Scenarios: In addition to puppy socialization, consider Day care for adolescent dogs. Many dog day care facilities offer play groups that respect each dog’s play style so that rambunctious players don’t mix with shy or quiet dogs. Your dog should be evaluated by a knowledgable staff member for play “fitness”. Or find a neighbor who’s dog has appropriate play skills that match that of your own dog and get these dogs together for play regularly.
• Dogs need fences: Based on laws governing property rights and for the safety of our canine family members, we do need fences. If your dog can see other dogs through windows or fences and their response is to bark, fence fight or become overly aroused, create a visual obstruction so the dog can’t rehearse this frustrated or territorial aggression. Many owners want their dogs to “see” the world go by because it’s the dog’s only boredom busting activity. Give your dog safe chew toys or problem solving “puzzle” activities.Take them for long runs in the park to work off excess energy. Interrupt fence running or window barking and take away the dog’s access to this scenario.
• Dog Park?  If your dog has a history of aggression or fear, do not take them to dog parks. Dog Parks are for the safe play of socially healthy dogs who have the right to play without being set up as “bait” for other aggressive dogs. If your dog is fearful, it is a short ride to aggression if even other friendly players approach them. Contact a behavior specialist or trainer who will help you to find appropriate activities for your dog and who will teach you how to safely and compassionately improve your dog’s responses to other dogs.
• Dogs discriminate. It is to their advantage to be able to decide who is safe to have contact with and who isn’t. Nobody’s dog needs to be friends with every dog they meet and if your dog “corrects” another dog for inappropriately dangerous social behavior, don’t punish the corrector. A dog who growls or snaps at an unruly adolescent is well within their rights to teach the other dog what they are doing wrong. The unruly dog actually needs this kind of response to learn the rules of social interaction. Move the dogs away from each other. Don’t let the “correction” escalate to self-defense.
• Sharing is not a survival strategy. Don’t expect your dog to share valuable food or chew items. If your dog covers his filled Kong with his head, freezes and lifts his lip at an approaching dog, understand that this is normal dog behavior and a productive communication to the other dog.The higher the value of the resource, especially food resources, the more likely a dog will actively guard them. If necessary, separate dogs when offering high value chew items.
• Be your dog’s advocate. Respect who they are and keep them safe.

Link to entire article: https://positively.com/contributors/are-domestic-dogs-losing-the-ability-to-get-along-with-each-other/

A new friend . . .

The Boyz checking out Mr. Menagerie.

They don't seem that impressed.... ;)

Mr. Menagerie

Meet Mr. Menagerie -- the Boyz' new plaything.  He has squeakers, crinkles, grunters and crunches galore and is great socialization for the puppies.  They are too young to play with toys but exposing them to new textures, and objects to climb over/around can never start too early.